Hello From Austria - An Excursion To Slovenia And Italy - Monte Lussari

After yesterday's exciting outing to Graz wemarket area and hiked up just a few meters to
were planning an even bigger outing today: anthe summit area of Monte Lussari from where
excursion to the so-called "Drei-Länderecke",we had a beautiful 360 degree of the surrounding
an area where Austria, Italy and Slovenia comemountains.
together. So we left early in the morning to driveLunch time had arrived and we decided to sit
from my home province of Styria along the A2down on one of the balconies looking southwards
Highway to the Austrian province of Carinthia. Theinto the Italian Alps. On this gorgeous clear day
drive across the mountains of Western Styria isthe view was astounding, and our appetite was
extremely scenic and the pleasant panoramasstimulated by the crisp Alpine air. We each
continued into the picturesque province ofordered a dish called "Tris" which consisted of
Carinthia ("Kärnten" in German).three types of pasta and also featured porcini
The province of Carinthia is the southernmostmushrooms and a local sheep cheese. The
Austrian province; it is close to 280 km long, butimposing mountain in our view was the Cima di
in some areas only 45 to 50 km wide. TheCacciatore (Hunter's Mountain). Neither one of us
western part of the province is characterized bycould finish this hearty lunch and we decided to
the Austrian High Alps while the eastern partwalk it off a bit with another walk in the summit
features wider valleys and medium-altitudearea before we took the cable car down into the
mountains. Carinthia is an extremely popularvalley.
tourist destination, in particular the scenic lakesWe drove back to Tarvisio where we stopped
(e.g. Wörthersee, Ossiacher See,for about an hour and checked out the local
Millstätter See, Weißensee and manymarket. Tarvisio is the main town in the Val
others) are a huge tourist draw in the summer,Canale area of Italy, a very unique region since it
and in winter this province features severalis the only area where Europe's major language
excellent ski areas for Alpine skiing enthusiasts.families, the Germanic, Slavic and
Our destination for today was a mountain calledRomance-language speakers, meet, a unique
"Mangart" which is located in Slovenia and at 2679constellation. Tarvisio itself used to be part of
m the fourth-highest peak of the Julian Alps. ThisAustria-Hungary until 1918 and the town used to
part of the Alps extends from north-eastern Italybe mostly German-speaking. For many years it
into Slovenia and was named after Julius Cesar.was an important market town and benefited
The predominant mineral in this area is limestonefrom the border traffic with Austria and the
which features many prominent and jaggedformer Yugoslavia, and respectively today's
mountain peaks.Slovenia. Even today there is still a significant
The Mangart mountain is most easily reachedamount of shopping activity going on on
from the Italian side, so we crossed theweekends.
Austrian-Italian border at Thörl-Maglern.As the afternoon was rapidly coming to a close
Because Austria and Italy are both EU memberwe decided to start our drive back to the eastern
countries, we did not even have to show ourpart of Austria which would take about three
passports any more and continued into the borderhours. Near the Carinthian city of Klagenfurt we
town of Tarvisio and turned left into a mountainhappened upon a traffic jam on the highway and
river valley that would take us to our destination.the constant stop and go action brought our car
Our drive took us through quaint mountain villagesclose to overheating again. As we started to
that seemed rather remote and secluded, andascend the mountain chain between Carinthia and
less than half an hour from Tarvis we reachedStyria, we drove onto a parking lot where we let
the beautiful "Predil Lake", a gorgeous lake withthe vehicle cool down again to make sure we'd be
green and turquoise waters that is surrounded byable to get across the mountains. Finally in the late
an imposing mountain panorama. We stopped forafternoon we had reached our home town of
a brief picture break and continued our ascent upWeiz and my brother and sister-in-law were
the Julian Alps past various switchbacks andlooking forward to resting and relaxing after a
leftover fortifications dating back to World War I.somewhat stressful drive.
Many mountains in this area were actually scenesWell, I had had a bit of a snooze in the car, so I
of the mountain warfare that characterized thewas ready to keep exploring. I hopped into my
First World War. Major military operations tookrental car and decided to continue with some local
place in this area right in the high mountainsexplorations. I drove through the picturesque Weiz
between the middle of 1915 and late 1917 andGorge along the Weiz River into the mountain
more than 300,000 Austro-Hungarian and Italianhighlands that frame my hometown. I drove up
soldiers perished in these battles.into the region of Sommeralm which is a
Finally we reached the Italian-Slovenian border andlandscape characterized by high-altitude alpine
we still had to present our passports. Wemeadows, located at about 1200 m. Most of the
continued further up on the flanks of the Mangartarea is above the tree-line and cows graze freely
Mountain, but our vehicle started to overheat. Myon wide open spaces. I watched a local farmer
brother stopped and opened the hood, and wefeed the cows and continued driving along the
started to conclude that the engine cooling fannarrow road that connects the Sommeralm with
was not working. As a result, we would be unablethe adjacent region of Teichalm (the word "Alm"
to continue climbing up the steep roads and hadrefers to "Alpine meadow or pasture".)
to turn around and head back into the valley.Some years ago seven small local municipalities
All of us were a little disappointed since we werecame together to form a region called
not able to reach our mountain destination, but"Almenland", a designated natural park region that
we were quick on our feet and decided to thinkoffers opportunities for hiking, biking, skiing as well
of an alternate location to visit. My brotheras wonderful mountain vistas. Several restaurants
suggested to head back to the Tarvisio area inand bed and breakfasts provide opportunities for
Italy and to take the cable car up Monte Sanhearty Austrian dining and accommodation, and a
Lussari. Since the road was either downhill orsmall local lake features pedal boats. I parked my
even, our vehicle was able to cool down and wecar at the "Teichwirt", a large local restaurant, and
were able to continue our trip on fairly flat terrain.started my walk around the lake.
South of Tarvisio we drove through the village ofAt the southern end of the lake is an over-sized
Camporosso whose name is said to go back tostatue of an Alpine ox, a symbol of the
red toads that were said to populate the area.successful local free-grazing cattle operations that
We stopped at the base station of the Montesell their products to numerous restaurants in the
Lussari cable car and then the three of us took aregion. Every summer more than 4000 Alpine
ride up in one of the 91 cabins. We were able tooxen graze in this area and apparently the meat
take my brother's dog with us and enjoyed thethat they produce is the most popular brand in all
eleven minute long ride up the mountain. As weof Austria.
ascended the mountain vistas got moreI walked past the very rustic restaurant and local
impressive.entertainment centre called the
We exited at the top and I was surprised to see"Latschenhütte", a place that features Alpine
a tiny mountain village on top of the mountaindisco parties every Tuesday and "Over-30"
which actually has been a popular pilgrimageparties every Friday. Typical Styrian live music is
destination for more than 600 years. Legends sayalso offered regularly and this complex of wooden
that in 1360 a shepherd was looking for straystructures is a popular entertainment destination
sheep and found them, kneeling next to a shrubfor people from the surrounding region. Just next
and when he came closer, he saw that there wasto it I stopped to watch a group of grazing cows
a wooden image of Mother Mary with Baby Jesus.and was entertained by a duo of bovine
He picked up the wooden image and took it downcreatures that were "horsing around" (or should it
to the village to give it to the parish priest. Butbe "cowing around"?) with one another. They
the next day the image was on the mountainwere snuggling up to one another, occasionally
again, surrounded by kneeling sheep. Thisone tried to jump the other and all around they
miraculous event repeated itself for the third timeseemed to have a good time.
and then a senior church official issued theThe sun was now setting and the air was getting
instruction to build a chapel at the location wherecool, so I started my drive home past the
the image was found.mountain villages of Fladnitz and Passail, two
Several buildings surround this chapel, and almostmajor villages in the Passail Basin, a high-altitude
all of them house either restaurants or retailplateau that is framed on all sides by
stores where you can pick up souvenirs andmountaineous terrain. I definitely had had a full day
religious trinkets. Several restaurants featuretoday and was looking forward to new
outdoor patios or balconies that provide anadventures tomorrow.
unforgettable view. We walked through the small